Uri Nawa

Deadvlei, 2nd of April 2024 - Walking down Dune 45, we cross West-Flemish (!), Germans and a group of Asians. The latter wearing legionnaire caps, dust masks and cycling sleeve pieces covering their arms. When I ask where they come from they say ‘Tsaina’. I playfully do the v-sign (you are a donkey) above the head of a woman being photographed, her friend gets the giggles, and she asks me to repeat my gesture for a selfie with her. This time I do a well-behaved v-sign at hip height (peace to the world). So now I will be on a faraway server pixelated with two anonymous Chinese women.  The road up to Deadvlei is a bit challenging with deep sand and potholes, but nothing our Japanese workhorse cannot handle. The ride is bumpy and Karin and Gwen are forcefully shaken in the back, they complain with moderation... We walk the remaining kilometre to Deadvlei, the valley on the cover page picture of every guidebook about Namibia. It is indeed mind-blowing. A desiccated clay pan with skele...

Sossusvlei, 2nd of April 2024 - We get up early and drive to Sesriem. The Namib Naukluft National Park opens at 6:45 a.m. and we want to see Sossusvlei without sunburn. The desert is bone dry and hot, and climbing the dunes in the morning is easier. We queue to enter, eating our well-filled breakfast bag from Le Mirage. We make small talk with a German, who is not sure if he will do the last leg of sand road in his 4x4. 'Yesterday they had to tow away two Italians', he says. Once past the rangers, who keep track of the data you fill out at the gate, we drive towards Dune 45 (40 minutes) and Sossusvlei (60 minutes). There is a new tarmac road, almost straight to your destination. The sun comes up, and we follow a procession of camping cars, vans and jeeps. Speed limit is 60km/h, but everyone is doing about 100km/h. Dune 45 rises 150m above the plains, and we start walking to the top of the ridge. The sand under our feet is 5-million-year-old and is not comparable to any sand I ...

To Sossusvlei, 1st of April 2024 - We head South and then West. The Isuzu is good for the job, but does not smooth out the grooves of the sand and gravel on the B1. We must check the tire pressure at the next stop. Not much to stop. We pass Mariental and turn onto the C19 and drive through Maltahöhe, German heritage one-horse-towns. Our next stop is Le Mirage, close to Sesriem. It is a lodge built by a Belgian businessman. It is literally a castle built from scratch in the desert. From the room, we have spectacular views of the Namib Naukluft Park dunes. We enjoy the pool and prepare for our visit to Sossusvlei the next day. There is a strong wind blowing through the gate of Le Mirage when we go for dinner. Some excitement because there is a small snake crawling through the garden. It is as thick as my finger and as long as my forearm. Someone from the personnel keeps it under control under a pitchfork. Five metres away, the guests are having gin and tonics, enjoying the sunset. Every...

Camelthorn Kalahari, 31st of March 2024 - A dip in the pool and a Windhoek lager make a man’s life enjoyable. We observe a banana bird, officially the Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill, with a beak like a toucan. It is peacefully prospecting the ground for leftovers from the lodge. The view from the pool is breathtaking, with kudus and springboks roaming around. In the afternoon, we do a safari with Andreas. We cross the path of zebra, giraffes, kudus and even rhinos. The ostriches shoot off at an amazing speed when they hear the motor. Here and there abandoned eggs in the sand, the equivalent of 24 chicken eggs and strong as a rock. We stand on one like all stupid tourists do, still a strange experience. Andreas parks on top of a dune for the sunset and serves cold drinks. The sun changes the colour of the red sand dunes every minute until it disappears until the next morning. We go back to the lodge and have dinner in the open, the tables are arranged around a fire pit. We have South-...

Camelthorn Kalahari, 31st of March 2024 - It’s early morning when we meet five bushmen, who will do a short walk with us and explain how their ancestors survived in the harsh conditions of the desert. They come running towards us and greet us in their click language. A ranger from the Kalahari translates into English. They wear only a loin cloth and look petite and fragile. Scarce water supplies were stocked in ostrich eggs and hidden close to a landmark tree they would be able to recognise later. They show us how they hunted ant eaters and what herbs are medicinal. The smallest of the group has tattoos and is the most talkative. They show us how they make fire, ‘nguru nguru’. Short men with charisma, confidence and respect for nature. Bushmen protective of their ancient customs (FDC)

Hosea Kutako, 30th of March 2024 - After a sleepless night flight from Frankfurt we arrive in Hosea Kutako, the airport of the Namibian capital Windhoek. Two girls from Namibia Safari Concierge wait for us next to an Isuzu 4x4, our companion for the next two weeks. The car is as white as the girls’ teeth. We get welcome drinks and a bite for the road. Off we go to the Kalahari. We get used to the car and hit the white roads with enthusiasm. We arrive at the Camelthorn Lodge, where the friendly staff take care of our luggage. The red earth is striking, the landscape endless, the oryx and springboks at arm’s length. We are happy not to have lost our childlike wonder.   A springbok close to our lodge (FDC)